Introduction
This page shows some pictures of the layout of the Javelin "Bungholio", it is intended to give you a few ideas on how to layout your boat. No layout is perfect, they are all tradeoffs with good and bad points. This layout is something that we came up with after about 3 years of moving stuff around in my old Javelin Night Nurse, and then incorporating a few new ideas for Bungholio, in particular basing a lot of the controls around the mast stump.

Keep it Simple
The main design philosophy behind Bungholio's layout was to make it as simple as possible, and make the layout as clean as possible with as few ropes as possible cluttering up the boat. The theory is, that if you only have a few ropes to pull, you can concentrate on that huge windshift, or making the boat go faster, and by keeping the layout clean, you can move freely around the boat without tripping. When boat speed is close, the boat that makes the least mistakes should win.

These Pictures
These pictures were taken at the Auckland Boat show a few years ago, but the controls are all still in exactly the same position, and work well. The boat was photographed on its side, which may explain why in some of the photo's the ropes hang out horizontally. Also, we had two dummy crew trapezing off the side of the boat, so you might see the odd bit of rope going somewhere which you can't explain, it is probably holding the dummys on the side of the boat!!!. Click on any of the pictures to get a CLOSE UP view.

	Overall Layout. This picture just gives you some perspective for the remaining photo's.		Cunningham (Top) - The mainsail luff ends about 150mm above the boom to allow the cunningham to pull it down. The Cunningham (Blue rope, 3:1) is attached to the bottom of the main, then down through a suspended block, up round a block attached further up the luff and then down to the purchase. This means the mainsail wont bunch until it is pulled down to the boom. Outhaul - Outhaul cleat is located at front end of boom, there is a 2:1 purchase inside the boom, and a 2:1 purchase at the tack end of the mainsail giving a 4:1 purchase. Mainsheet - The Red/White rope exiting the front of the boom is the mainsheet. It runs through one side of a double 20mm block (the cunningham is in the other side)
	Cunningham (Bottom) - Yellow Rope - A simple 4:1 purchase is cascaded to the above 3:1 giving a final advantage of 12:1, this is lead around the outside of cockpit back to the skipper. Kicker/Vang (Blue) - A 6:1 purchase at the bottom, pulling on a 4:1 cascade giving final advantage of 24:1. This is about right. Use gruntier/high load blocks in the cascade part. On Bungholio the cascade rope is actually pure spectra 6mm tape, which was spliced together by Tweak.		Mast Post - All fittings are attached to the mast post, whcih is the a 70mm carbon tube. The attachment points are 8mm plywood flanges which are carbon wrapped around the mast post in the direction of the loads. Inserted into the plywood are little bits of stainless tube (acting as bushes) which the shackles are attached through. Kicker/Vang - The kicker is attached 1/2 way up the mast post to allow more room for the crew, and to allow the centreboard to be raised higher. Gennaker Halyard - Exits from a slot in the left side of the mast above the deck, through agrommted in the deck, and round a turning block at the base of the mast post
	Mainsheet / Cunningham - Better picture of cunningham and mainsheet exiting the boom. The double block is attached to a saddle which has been stretched to fit on the attachment bolts for the kicker, so less holes in a serious load part of the boat.		Kicker/Vang - This is a simple way to attach the kicker to the boom, a webbing strap is sewn together with a 1/2 twist and stainless ring in it. The outboard end of the strap is riveted with a penny washer to the top of the boom (dont rivet in bottom, as load open holes on bottom of boom, but close holes on top). Use a decent stainless ring, the one on Bungholio blew up about 6 months after this was taken, and is now a stainless "C". The strap pulls on itself and spreads the load along a decent length of the boom. Outhaul - A small block is used to lead the outhaul back closer to the crew.
	Outhaul - The mainsail tack is held close to the boom by a bit of webbing sewn around the boom. The outhaul dead-eyes in front of an exit block in the end of the boom, with the block near the tack of the main, we start with a tidy 2:1 purchase. Mainsheet - A 5mm Spectra line (Green) is used for the mainsheet from a transom bridle, to the 2:1 purchase inside the boom, until is becomes more user friendly 8mm rope		Mainsheet - A high-load floating block is attached directly over the transom so the mainsheet pulls straight down onto the bridle. This re-directs the mainsheet so it goes into the 20mm exit block in the end of the boom. Rudder Bungy -  This bungy cord just holds the mainsail out of the dirt when the boat is tipped on its side. When sailing, this bungy holds the rudder/tiller down.
	Mainsheet - (Red/White) After exiting the boom, runs down the left side of the mast, through a ratchet block at the mast post base, and then trough a tube along the floor back to the centre of the boat. Tack Line - (Green) Uses a 1:2 purchase and runs through the bowsprit. Pull of 1m of the tack line, takes the gennaker out 2m. Runs through a tube back to the middle of the boat for the skipper.		Clean Layout - Less stuff ups make for a faster boat around the course. A few ideas we used on Bunholio that seem to help are. 1. Run control lines round outside of cockpit where you cant trip or stand on them. 2. Run lines that must go to the centre of the boat through tubes. These double as foot stops, and mean the crew can't stand or trip on any ropes. 3. No sticky/outy stuff. I.e attach jib cleats to the deck, not on "extensions" that the jib sheets can loop around. 4. Mainsheet inside boom. No bridle in centre of boat to step over or trip over. You can keep better fore/aft trim in the boat, more room for tacks/gybes, and smoother/less jerky moving about the boat in the ultra light.
	Mainsheet - (Red/White) After exiting the floor tube, runs through a block to direct it to a small block. Mainsheet mounted on a post attached to the subfloor frames so load on mainsheet dosn't seperate false floor from frames. Tack Line - (Green) Has a small ball on end of tack line, when gennaker in, this sits one hand width from back of block on floor. You lean in to pull tack line, and by the time you are sitting straight again, the 1:2 purchase means one movement has the gennaker out.		Jib Cunningham - (Blue) Deadeyes inside the stem, up round a small block on the jib, then back under the deck. Red Line - The red line on the deck (normally) goes down to the prod from the bottom of the forestay, this helps to stop the gennaker sheets catching under the safety towing eye just above the prod on the stem. Both the jib cunningham block beneath the deck and the block for the trapeze wire bungy are attached to saddles bolted to the inside of the stem. These saddles act as washers for the forestay chainplate attached to the outside of the stem.
	Jib Cunningham - (Blue) After the 2:1 purchase above the deck, come under deck for a second 2:1 (total 4:1) and is cleated off on the right side of the mast post under the deck. It is not adjusted much, so is not in a position for frequent use. Tack Line - Green to a 1:2 block where the white spectra 4mm line is deadeyed to the stem. - Just visible (white) on the right side of the picture neat the top of the sides.		Trapeze Adjustment - A simple system using a normal holt allen aluminium block/cleat, witha 2:1 adjustment. Dont use the plastic "purpose built" trapeze cleats, as they are crap and dont work. The trapeze bungy goes through the deck, throug a hole in the mainbulkhead, up to the stem and back down the other side of the boat to the other trapeze wire. This is a good length, about 4m of bungy to allow crew to get to the transom on those fresh days. Lowers - These go from the chainplates to the mast just above the boom, and enable you to put on an obscene amount of kicker without bending the mast. A small bungy (black, but not attached), is normally tied between the sidestay and lower to stop the trapeze wire wrapping around the sidestay.
	Jib Sheeting - A simple inner and outer track system, going to a carefully aligned block and Harken cam cleat with "rollers" to allow sheet to be cleated from different angles. Line the jib sheet up with your usual position (fore/aft), and so it can be uncleated form your usual height on the wire. Its normally not a bad idea to leave this until the boat can be rigged and you can get it just right.		Gennaker sheets - These run from a lead block further back down the gunnale, to a ratchet block attached to the chainplates. Having them well forward means the crew can easily grab them. Ideally, the sheets could attach directly to the ratchet block. With our gennaker foot length we cant do this, new gennaker will be cut shorter on foot  to make this work. This will stops the crew sitting on the sheets in the gybe, our major problem at the moment on the boat. Lowers. Note that the chainplates have two sets of holes, one for the lowers, and one for the side stays so no twisting loads are set up in the sidestay adjustment.